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	<title>AmpAviators &#187; Plane Reviews</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.ampaviators.com/category/plane-reviews/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.ampaviators.com</link>
	<description>Unbiased information on all aspects of radio controlled electric planes</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:43:16 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
		<title>Lightflite RC Bug</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/26/lightflite-rc-bug/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/26/lightflite-rc-bug/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Mar 2007 14:46:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plane Reviews]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One of the intriguing planes I saw at the WRAM Show was the The Lightflite RC &#8220;Bug&#8221;. After spending some time talking about it, I decided to buy a full kit to try it out &#8211; and this is a kit, not ARF by any means. I took my time building it to document the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One of the intriguing planes I saw at the WRAM Show was the <a href="http://www.lightflite.com/" target="_new"><strong>The Lightflite RC &#8220;Bug&#8221;</strong></a>.</p>
<p><span id="more-114"></span><br />
After spending some time talking about it, I decided to buy a full kit to try it out &#8211; and this is a kit, not ARF by any means. I took my time building it to document the build &#8211; I would guess that it takes about 4 &#8211; 5 hours actual building time and at least that waiting for glue to dry.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug25.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="700" height="456" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><span><strong>&#8220;The closest thing to a &#8216;NERF&#8217; plane you&#8217;ll ever find&#8221; &#8211; inspired by the legendary     <a href="http://www.flyifo.com/" target="_new"><strong>IFO</strong></a></strong></span></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug26.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="700" height="505" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><span><strong>MSRP: $149 full kit &#8211; just add receiver</strong></span></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The instruction manual is 23 pages long &#8211; if you&#8217;re dyslexic, you&#8217;re going to have a problem with this one! I found the manual complete but a good editing job and some more pictures would help. I bought the full kit which includes everything but a receiver, the contents shown below:</p>
<p><strong>Key Specs per Lightflite:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Wing Span: 23.5 inches; wing area: 340 sq, inches / 2.36 ft²</li>
<li>Flying Weight:  6½ oz.; Wing Loading: 2.8 oz/ft²; Thrust/weight ratio: 1.85 (2 cell)</li>
<li>Construction:  0.9 density, 8mm EPP foam sheet and carbon fiber
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug27.jpg" border="0" alt="EPP" width="500" height="409" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> <span>This is EPP foam &#8211; like a mix of foam and rubber</span> </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></li>
<li>Battery:  Lipo 480 mah 2 cells</li>
<li>Controls:  3 servos for elevon/rudder</li>
</ul>
<p>Looking at the wing loading and thrust/weight ratio gives you an idea of what&#8217;s in store &#8211; performance can range from sedate to all-out crazy.</p>
<p><strong>Motor Specifications:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Motor: CD ROM style brushless, 1100 kv</li>
<li>Thrust: 12 oz with 2 cell, 17 ounces with 3 cell Lipo</li>
<li>Weight: 0.9 ounces (25 grams)</li>
<li>Diameter: 1.1 inch (28mm); Total Length: 1.7 inch (43mm); Shaft Length: 0.4 inch (10mm); Shaft Diameter: 3mm</li>
<li>Voltage: 7.2 to 12.6</li>
<li>Current: 10 amp max</li>
</ul>
<p>This is a real beauty &#8211; very quiet!</p>
<p><strong>Tower Pro SERVO SG50 Specs</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Dimensions: 0.83 x 0.45 x 0.9 inch (21.0 x 11.5 x 23 mm)</li>
<li>Weight with wire and connecter: 0.23 ounce (6.6 grams)</li>
<li>Stall Torque at 4.8 volts: 10.2 oz/in (.7 kg/cm)</li>
<li>Operating Voltage: 3.0 to 6.0 volts</li>
<li>Operating Speed @ 4.8 volts (no load): 0.10 sec/ 60 degrees</li>
<li>Connector Wire Length: 5.9 inches (150 mm)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Recommended props for 2 cell Lipo batteries (7.4 volt):</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>The GWS EP1060 produces about 12 ounces of thrust at 6.5 amps with a pitch speed of 28 mph</li>
<li>The APC 9x6E produces about 11 ounces of thrust at 6 amps with a pitch speed of 29 mph</li>
<li>The APC 10&#215;3.8SF produces about 12 ounces of thrust at 6.5 amps with a pitch speed of 17 mph</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Recommended props for 3 cell Lipo batteries (11.1 volt):</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>The GWS EP 9050 produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 9 amps with a pitch speed of 34 mph; This prop is a tight fit on the included prop adapter &#8211; the hub may need to be filed down a little; APC props fit perfectly.</li>
<li>The APC 9x6E produces about 17 ounces of thrust at 10 amps with a pitch speed of 36 mph.</li>
<li>The APC 9&#215;3.8SF produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 9.5 amps with a pitch speed of 25 mph.</li>
<li>The GWS EP1060 works great and produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 8.5 amps</li>
</ul>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Kit Parts </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The Bug comes in a relatively flat cardboard box with scads of little pieces:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug1.jpg" border="0" alt="Parts" width="700" height="594" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>RC “BUG” Parts List </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>EPP Foam parts:</strong></p>
<p>Main Wing, (2 ) left and right elevons, fuselage, rudder, (2) control rod standoffs</p>
<p><strong>Hardware Kit:</strong></p>
<p>1- 34” .098 Carbon rod main spar prop guard<br />
1- 20” .098 Carbon rod rear frame spar<br />
1- 14” .098 Carbon rod front frame spar<br />
1- 14” .050 Carbon rod landing gear bow<br />
1- 9” .050 Carbon rod axle<br />
1- 3 ¾ “ .050 Carbon rod landing gear strut<br />
1- 2 ½” .050 Carbon rod rudder surface control rod brace<br />
3- 9 1/2” .050 Carbon rod servo linkages<br />
3- 5” .050 (2) &#8211; Carbon elevon surface control rods (1) &#8211; fuselage stiffener<br />
4- sm cable ties (landing gear and receiver/esc)<br />
1- lg cable tie (servo horn, tail skid)<br />
1- large black tubing (main frame)<br />
1- small black tubing (landing gear)<br />
1- clear tubing (landing gear and servo linkages)<br />
1- thin styrene strip (fuselage landing gear brace)<br />
1- thick styrene strip (servo plates)<br />
2- wheel tread rubber bands<br />
1- magic motor mount tube and x-mount motor base<br />
1- .032 music wire (servo linkages)<br />
1- large red heat shrink tube (servo control horns)<br />
1- sm heat shrink (servo linkages)<br />
1- roll “Blenderm” tape (hinging)</p>
<p>The full kit incudes the motor with prop saver, 10 amp ESC with connectors, 3 Tower servos and a 2 cell 480 mah Lipo, 15 &#8211; 25C burst. In addition, some acetone comes in handy to remove the UHU glue that comes with the full kit. The only thing I had to buy was some CA, kicker and some JST connectors (20 AWG) for the battery/ESC and charger.</p>
<p>{mospagebreak}</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Body Assembly </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The carbon fiber frame is the stiffener for the wings. The large front rod has to be held in tension and glued together &#8211; I found the easiest way was to use string to hold it together while the glue dries:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug18.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame Glued" width="600" height="376" /></div>
<p>Once the glue dries, then glue the frame to the wings (the ailerons have been taped on):</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug17.jpg" border="0" alt="Body Frame" width="550" height="502" /></div>
<p>Next add a small cf rod to stiffen the aft body:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug16.jpg" border="0" alt="Body Done" width="600" height="231" /></div>
<p>The glue the body to the wing:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug8.jpg" border="0" alt="Body Wing Done" width="600" height="477" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Motor Mount </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The motor mounts into a small plastic tube which is glued into the body &#8211; you have to cut it to 1 ½&#8221; long and then score it so the glue holds better:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug9.jpg" border="0" alt="Mtr Mt Scored" width="450" height="251" /></div>
<p>Then insert the mount into the front of the body:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug7.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor Mount" width="580" height="522" /></div>
<p>Finally, push the motor into the mount, tighten the lock nut and secure the prop with the included rubber &#8220;O&#8221; ring:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug24.jpg" border="0" alt="Prop" width="500" height="363" /></div>
<p>{mospagebreak}</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Control Surfaces </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The control surfaces are actuated by small cf rods &#8211; glue one rod to the rudder:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug10.jpg" border="0" alt="Rud Rod" width="500" height="266" /></div>
<p>The aileron requires gluing a stand-off onto the aileron:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug12.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Parts" width="400" height="566" /></div>
<p>Note that the kit includes marks which indicate where components are to be mounted:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug13.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Parts Close" width="600" height="255" /></div>
<p>Glue the standoff and rod per the directions:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug11.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Rod Done" width="500" height="201" /></div>
<p>The small rods are joined to longer rods that reach the servos using clear tubing and CA with kicker:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug5.jpg" border="0" alt="Control Joint" width="400" height="170" /></div>
<p>You build a long aileron servo arm with a plastic tab and heat shrink:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug4.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Servo Arms" width="747" height="353" /></div>
<p>The aileron servo glued in place &#8211; I used some Blenderm tape on the servo&#8217;s body, then glued the servo to the wing; this way it you have to change the servo, it can be removed easily:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug23.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Servo" width="500" height="481" /></div>
<p>Finally the rudder servo &#8211; note again that all locations are clearly marked:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug2.jpg" border="0" alt="Rud Servo" width="500" height="356" /></div>
<p>{mospagebreak}</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Landing Gear </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The landing gear consists of small diameter cf rods:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug15.jpg" border="0" alt="L G" width="500" height="331" /></div>
<p>Clear tubing is used with CA and kicker for the joints:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug14.jpg" border="0" alt="Axel Joint" width="450" height="295" /></div>
<p>You make the wheels out of foam, plastic pads and rubber bands &#8211; very clever!</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug3.jpg" border="0" alt="Wheel" width="400" height="377" /></div>
<p>Drill a small hole and mount to the landing gear.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Electronics </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>With the servos installed, add the ESC, receiver and battery:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug22.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Servos Elec" width="700" height="445" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><span><strong>The rod behind the axle is the shock absorber for the landing gear</strong></span></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>I installed the battery using velcro &#8211; it&#8217;s the way to balance the model for flight:<br />
<!--</p>
<div align="center"><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug20.jpg" mce_src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug20.jpg" width=600 height=391 border=0 alt="Bat Install"></div>
<p>&#8211;></p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug6.jpg" border="0" alt="Bat" width="700" height="374" /></div>
<p>The ESC and receiver are held in place with zip ties on opposite sides of the body:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bug21.jpg" border="0" alt="Rcvr" width="600" height="441" /></div>
<p>And that&#8217;s it! I took my time and you should expect something like 4-5 hours actual assembly time &#8211; glued parts take time to dry, so it will take longer.</p>
<p>{mospagebreak}</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Flying Notes </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>This video was taken with the Bug flying at about half throttle and with the transmitter set for low rates and exponential: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW1tVMhGlqg" target="_new"><strong>Bug Video</strong></a>; this is a more recent video after about 40 flights: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHGcaQzhh2o" target="_new"><strong>Bug Video Aerobatics</strong></a>. The more recent video is still using low rates!</p>
<p>With the ailerons about 25% of wing area, I can&#8217;t stress enough that <strong>the Bug is super sensitive</strong>. Unless you&#8217;re a very experienced flyer, <strong>setting up dual rates and exponential on all control surfaces is a MUST</strong>. I set all surfaces to 75% and exponential to 50% &#8211; if you have a heavy hand on the sticks, use more. Make sure that when powered the control surfaces are absolutely flat &#8211; very important!</p>
<p>I found it very easy to ROG on short grass &#8211; maybe 5-8 feet and it&#8217;s up. Give it a touch up elevator and it climbs very rapidly &#8211; give it a touch too much and it goes vertical (here&#8217;s where setting dual rates and exponential proves in). Best to let it rise gradually to about 100 feet and then set your trims &#8211; a few clicks should do it. Once trimmed, hand launches are a snap &#8211; advance the throttle to where you feel it&#8217;s pulling enough (don&#8217;t need full), give it a gentle toss and it does a nice, even climb out.</p>
<p>If there&#8217;s a HINT of a breeze, you&#8217;ll know right away. Any wind under the wings will cause the Bug to rapidly climb; the reverse is true &#8211; any wind over the wings will cause the Bug to dive rapidly; the first time it happened to me it was unexpected. Luckily it happened at altitude so I recovered OK and figured out what was going on.</p>
<p>In any breeze, flying into the wind and managing the throttle can get you to no forward motion. Flying with the breeze behind you will rapidly accelerate the Bug. Turning can be interesting &#8211; too steep and the breeze will turn you the other way. For your first flights, calm conditions are a must.</p>
<p>Once you get to the point where you can control the Bug, start to get crazy. Use plenty of altitude, crank up the motor and have at it. Loops, corkscrews, hover &#8211; whatever you ever wanted to try, you can do with the Bug and feel confident that a mistake will not trash the plane. This is where the EPP foam shines &#8211; it&#8217;s rubbery consistency absorbs shocks, almost with impunity.</p>
<p>However, you can break the carbon fiber bow in the front &#8211; I did. It&#8217;s under a lot of tension and a good whack will break it. I managed to fix it OK and with more flying experience, it becomes less of an issue.</p>
<p>Landing on grass is a bit different &#8211; set up your approach, throttle back to about 1/4 and when just about to land, chop the throttle and up elevator &#8211; the Bug stalls and plops down on its wheels &#8211; no run on the grass. If there&#8217;s a breeze, landing into the wind is almost like a descending hover &#8211; very little forward motion and plop down for a landing. The ESC is very nice &#8211; when the battery is low, if you advance the throttle it does not rev up &#8211; time to land!</p>
<p>The landing gear is incredibly strong due to its flexibility &#8211; it can take some pretty good knocks without damage.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Conclusions </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>Overall a real fun plane. It can take some good knocks without damage and should last a long time. As a learning plane for aerobatics, I think it&#8217;s hard to beat &#8211; you can try just about anything without worrying about turning your model into a pile of balsa or foam.</p>
<p>This is a true park flyer &#8211; it doesn&#8217;t need acres of space, can fly slowly and it&#8217;s very quiet. With practice, I have no doubt that the Bug can be a backyard flyer (assuming a nice size backyard).</p>
<p>Expensive? Not cheap with the full kit at $149, but unless you&#8217;re a skilled foam builder, you&#8217;ll spend a fair amount of time getting it right. What&#8217;s nice about dealing with Ron at lightflite.com is that you can email him to tweak the kit to your needs (eg, full kit but no servos) and he will try to accommodate your needs.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Cox Christen Eagle</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/22/cox-christen-eagle/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/22/cox-christen-eagle/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plane Reviews]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I saw the Cox Christen Eagle at the WRAM show and was mightily impressed. I spoke with the Cox rep about the Eagle and the more we spoke,the more I liked it as a third or fourth plane on which to learn ailerons and some aerobatics at a reasonable price. He kindly offered to send [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I saw the Cox Christen Eagle at the WRAM show and was mightily impressed.<br />
<br /><span id="more-113"></span><br />I spoke with the Cox rep about the Eagle and the more we spoke,the more I liked it as a third or fourth plane on which to learn ailerons and some aerobatics at a reasonable price. He kindly offered to send one to try out.</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
 <img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/wrma3.jpg" border="0" alt="WRMA Cox" width="650" height="479" />
</div>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
<span><a href="http://www.coxmodels.com/prodinfo.asp?number=006400" target="_new"><strong>Cox Christen Eagle</strong></a> &#8211; MSRP: $130 including Outrunner, Lipo and ESC</span>
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
<strong>Key Specs:</strong>
</p>
<ul>
<li>Wingspan: Top 33.6&quot;, Bottom 32&quot;; Length: 28¾&quot;; Wing Type: Symmetrical, Foam; Flying weight: 22.2 oz
	</li>
<li>Wing area: 397 in²; Wing Loading: 8.1 oz/ft²; Cubic Wing Loading 4.9 oz/ft²
	</li>
<li>Motor: Outrunner; Output Power: 110 Watts; Eagle Watts/Pound: 79
	</li>
<li>Motor Thrust: 17 ounces; Eagle Thrust/Weight Ratio: 0.77
	</li>
<li>Motor Max Sustained Load: 18 Amps; No load kv: 1100 rpm/v
	</li>
<li>Included Prop: 10 x 4.7 SF
	</li>
<li>Motor Dimensions: 40 × 48 mm, Shaft Dimension 4 mm, Weight 52.4 grams
	</li>
<li>ESC: Sensorless with BEC; rated for 18 amps continuous; hardwired settings
	</li>
<li>LiPo: 1800 mah 3S1P, rated 10C continuous
	</li>
</ul>
<p>
The Eagle arrived in one of the best packed boxes I have seen &#8211; all parts were bubble wrapped and the foam container was neatly compartmented to protect parts:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322071.jpg" border="0" alt="Box" width="700" height="315" />
</div>
<p>
Unpacked, the Cox Eagle has only a few parts to it &#8211; assembly is basically add the servos and transmitter, adjust the servo travel, then bolt on the wings &#8211; the Eagle should be ready to fly with one evening&#39;s work.
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322072.jpg" border="0" alt="Unpack" width="700" height="637" />
</div>
<p>
These are the parts included with the Eagle (also inluded are servo arms which do not fit Spektrum S75s):
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220711.jpg" border="0" alt="Parts" width="600" height="512" />
</div>
<p>
Nice to have another metric wrench! Note that the battery does not have a balancing plug &#8211; I spoke to Cox about this and they stated the stock of batteries was ordered 24 months ago when balancing was just becoming main-stream. However, a balancing plug can be added but does require soldering.
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<p>
{mospagebreak}
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
The Cox Eagle&#39;s Parts &#8211; A Closer View
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
The ESC has a nice heatsink; note that in the nose of the plane, there are four sharp screws which hold the cabane struts
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322073.jpg" border="0" alt="ESC" width="400" height="458" />
</div>
<p>
to the body which are held in place by plastic retainers glued to the foam body. Mounting the ESC away from these exposed screws is a prudent step. Included with the ESC is a two prong plug:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220719.jpg" border="0" alt="ESC 2 prong" width="300" height="322" />
</div>
<p>
According to Cox:
</p>
<p>
&quot;The 2 prong plug is for switching the ESC to a 2-cell cut-off.  A shorting strap is attached to the prongs.  This is the only programmable feature of the ESC. [If the prongs are inadvertently shorted] the only danger would be if there is a constant short, the wrong cut-off is applied.&quot; I taped the two prongs over to avoid any problem.
</p>
<p>
The cabane has two nuts glued to the plastic frame &#8211; the top wings bolts to the cabane with two nylon screws.
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322077.jpg" border="0" alt="Cabane Struts" width="600" height="450" />
</div>
<p>
There are two battery compartments &#8211; one for NiMh (not used) and one for the included Lipo:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322076.jpg" border="0" alt="Bat comps" width="600" height="331" />
</div>
<p>
The battery ships with a Deans-like plug &#8211; it&#39;s NOT a Deans:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220712.jpg" border="0" alt="Bat Plug" width="400" height="394" />
</div>
<p>
A close look at the male plug shows that it is not as nicely finished:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220720.jpg" border="0" alt="Bat Plug Male" width="450" height="370" />
</div>
<p>
I found the battery plug an incredibly tight fit &#8211; so much so that I filed the tangs down a bit to loosen it up.
</p>
<p>
The Outrunner is bolted onto a rigid plastic bulkhead:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322078.jpg" border="0" alt="Outrunner" width="600" height="450" />
</div>
<p>
A back view shows the windings and PCB:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322079.jpg" border="0" alt="Outr Close" width="400" height="435" />
</div>
<p>
The landing gear includes wheel pants that look very nice:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220710.jpg" border="0" alt="Wheel Pants" width="450" height="298" />
</div>
<p>
Unfortunately, I land on grass and I replaced the very spiffy wheel pants with a larger wheel:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220713.jpg" border="0" alt="Wheels" width="400" height="249" />
</div>
<p>
Finally there is a steerable, small tail wheel:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322074.jpg" border="0" alt="Tail Wheel" width="400" height="454" />
</div>
<p>
Overall, build quality looks good. Some of the decals, however, had bubbles in them &#8211; the instructions state that spraying the decals with a clear lacquer will protect them &#8211; they are somewhat fragile and will lift off if your fingers are sticky.
</p>
<p>
{mospagebreak}
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Assembly Notes
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
The Cox Eagle is about as close to RTF as an ARF can be. This should not take more than 3 hours to assemble, once you have the servos and receiver in hand. I found the control surfaces a bit stiff &#8211; I would suggest working them before installing servos to loosen them up a bit. I also found that the elevator rod was binding in its exit slot:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0322075.jpg" border="0" alt="Elev Rod" width="450" height="278" />
</div>
<p>
A few strokes with an X-acto and it was free. The bottom wing includes a servo pocket for the ailerons &#8211; I used Spektrum S75s and it was a VERY snug fit &#8211; no way this is coming out (a touch of glue for safety).
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220714.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Servo" width="550" height="288" />
</div>
<p>
I did find that the aileron&#39;s control arms did not clear the body when mounting the bottom wing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220717.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Fit" width="500" height="348" />
</div>
<p>
I had to cut two small grooves so that they could clear &#8211; no big deal. The rudder and elevator servos, however, were not snug at all, especially after doing some cutting for the servo wires to clear the pocket. I epoxied two 1/8&quot; plywood strips to the foam and securely screwed the servos (pre-drilled holes) down.
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220715.jpg" border="0" alt="Servos" width="600" height="450" />
</div>
<p>
There is plenty of room for any receiver &#8211; I used an AR-6000, mounted with velcro:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220716.jpg" border="0" alt="AR6000" width="700" height="395" />
</div>
<p>
The top ailerons are actuated by a rod connected to the bottom ailerons &#8211; the connection point is a small control horn bolted to the top wing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220718.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Horn" width="300" height="293" />
</div>
<p>
THESE ARE DELICATE! While adjusting the clevis on the rod, even though I held the rod in place with a pliers, I managed to snap one off. You can see that there are two holes aft of the forward hole &#8211; these weaken the arms. I managed to fix the broken arm by first epoxying it together, then I applied a small strip of Sig Koverall saturated with epoxy to strengthen it. As a preventive measure, I filled the two small holes on each arm with epoxy to strengthen them.
</p>
<p>
All finished with my large wheels:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/03220721.jpg" border="0" alt="Finished" width="700" height="479" />
</div>
<p>
The landing gear slips into a slot between the two battery compartments &#8211; the manual suggest gluing it in. The gear is made up of wire and will bend on any hard landing. The canopy is held on by four small sticky tabs &#8211; IMHO not enough. Either add some more sticky tabs or use a rubber band to hold it in place (the quick-and-dirty fix).
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<p>
{mospagebreak}
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Initial Flight Impressions
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
Flying time has been limited lately due to windy days and snow on the ground. I was able to get in a short flight in (about 8 minutes &#8211; the field was more swamp than grass due to emlting snow):
</p>
<ul>
<li>As I expected, the symmetrical wing requires more speed than, say, a flat bottom or undercamber wing;
	</li>
<li>Slow speed performance is OK but the margin for error narrows quickly;
	</li>
<li>Performance is &quot;spirited&quot; and controls are sensitive; a heavy hand on the stick is not recommended;
	</li>
<li>Exponential rates are highly recommended &#8211; I used +30;
	</li>
<li>I hand launched without a problem &#8211; the climb out was straight and up;
	</li>
<li>I started with the control surfaces flat and needed a few tics of down elevator to keep it from porpoising at wot.
	</li>
</ul>
<p>Overall, the stock motor is OK but I found (initial impressions) that it requires about 75% throttle at level flight to keep things going nicely; at something like 40-50% throttle, it descended quickly.</p>
<p>
IMHO this is a super buy for the flier who is interested in learning aerobatics &#8211; it&#39;s not super-duper sensitive, but will do the basics quite well. Re-fitting the stock outrunner with one to give a thrust/weight ratio around 1.25 should ratchet performance up very smartly. Finally, it&#39;s very sharp looking.
</p>
<p>
<strong>At an MSRP of $130, this is a good buy.</strong>
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<hr />
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Selected User Comments
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
I asked for some user comments among current Eagle owners and also looked around in some forums for additional comments &#8211; excerpts below:
</p>
<p>
<strong>Thomas B</strong>
</p>
<p>
&quot;I really only saw two things I did not like on first inspection.
</p>
<p>
The tie wraps that secure the front of the interplane strut on the top wing looked a little crude to me. With as many other nice injection molded parts that they supply in the kit, it would have been nice to have a neat little molded &quot;shoe&quot; installed in the bottom of the top wing that the front of the strut could snap in to. Also, the aileron torque rods being exposed on top of the ailerons was a little ugly.&quot;
</p>
<hr />
<strong>Manish</strong></p>
<p>
&quot;I am very happy with the Stock motor. Good power along with flight times equals a nicely balanced power system. The motor is not a 3D powerhouse motor, but then again I like to fly the Eagle like the full size version flying in an airshow. It will do any of the aerobatic maneuvers with style. I experimented with a 1320 TP pack which pushed the cg back just that little bit and was able to perform inverted flat spins. Very cool. The Eagle flat spins like a leaf falling from a tree. Just floats down.&quot;
</p>
<hr />
<strong>Red61</strong></p>
<p>
&quot;Stock motor, stock battery, APC 9&#215;4.7 prop:
</p>
<ul>
<li>5490 RPM
	</li>
<li> 90.3 Watts, peak; 8.31 Amps, peak
	</li>
<li>10.73 Volts, minimum
	</li>
<li>24.43 MPH (top prop pitch speed)
	</li>
<li>13.00 minutes of flight (at full throttle)&quot;
	</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<strong>Frank</strong></p>
<p>
&quot;I hooked it up to my &quot;watts up&quot; meter, and at full throttle it was using 11-12 amps and about 128 watts indicated., half throttle position showed about 4-5 amps. RPM was around 6600 with the supplied prop.
</p>
<p>
Weight ready to fly was 22 oz exactly.
</p>
<p>
Took it out this morning, and it handled very well on the ground, tracked pretty straight, and lifted off when I was only at about 1/2 throttle, I climbed to altitude, needed lots of down elevator trim, and a lot of right aileron. Once trimmed it was pretty neutral for different power settings.
</p>
<p>
I did most normal aerobatics, rolls (good roll rate on high rates, reasonable on low), nice tight loops, outside loops without falling out, good snaps, knife edge wanted to go away from the canopy, and needed some speed to keep the nose up, immelmans, and cuban eights were all done on settings near half throttle.
</p>
<p>
It will almost hover, but has plenty of power for most normal aerobatics and low throttle settings. It landed extremely slowly with a bit of power on, flared nicely as I pulled power off. A very relaxing plane to fly, with just a few minor issues.&quot;
</p>
<hr />
<p>
If interested, do a search on the RC forums for &quot;Cox Eagle&quot; for additional comments.</p>
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		<title>Sig Jenny JN4 ARF</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/19/sig-jenny-jn4-arf/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/19/sig-jenny-jn4-arf/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plane Reviews]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Attractive WWI biplane slow flyer, with mods to strengthen Pic courtesy of SIG Mfg Key Specs: Wingspan: 32.4&#34;; Area: 285 in²; Wing Loading ~5.3 ounces Flying Weight: ~10.5 ounces Motor: SIG 180, 4.4:1 gear ratio Prop: 8.5 x 8 Radio Required: 3 Channel I recently built Sig&#39;s Jenny JN4 ARF (HERE &#8211; look under &#34;ARF [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Attractive WWI biplane slow flyer, with mods to strengthen<br />
<br /><span id="more-112"></span>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/Jenny.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="300" height="188" />
</div>
</div>
<p><strong></p>
<div align="left">
<span>Pic courtesy of SIG Mfg</span>
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong>Key Specs:</strong>
</p>
<p></strong></p>
<ul>
<li>
<div align="left">
	Wingspan: 32.4&quot;; Area: 285 in²; Wing Loading ~5.3 ounces
	</div>
</li>
<li>
<div align="left">
	Flying Weight: ~10.5 ounces
	</div>
</li>
<li>
<div align="left">
	Motor: SIG 180, 4.4:1 gear ratio
	</div>
</li>
<li>
<div align="left">
	Prop: 8.5 x 8
	</div>
</li>
<li>
<div align="left">
	Radio Required: 3 Channel
	</div>
</li>
</ul>
<p align="left">
I recently built Sig&#39;s Jenny JN4 ARF <a href="http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig" target="_new"><strong><u><span style="color: #0000ff">(HERE &#8211; look under &quot;ARF Scale Models&quot;)</span></u></strong></a> and have been flying it for about two months. This review includes what I did to strengthen the Jenny so that it could take a more powerful motor. My initial setup used a Hobbyzone 3 channel tx/rx/servos recycled from the Super Cub with the stock SIG 180 motor, almost immediately followed by an upgrade to Spektrum DX6 rx/tx/servos, an E-Flite Park 400, Thunderbird 18 Controller and 1320 Lipo.
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen5.jpg" border="0" alt="My Jen" width="650" height="437" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
<span>My second Jenny after substantial re-inforcing</span>
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
I got to like the Jenny so much that I bought two more (I made a deal at my lhs) so I could apply the lessons I learned (the hard way) for strengthening subsequent builds. I&#39;ll get into more detail about flying characteristics after the build review.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
Kit Contents
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
The kit features die-cut plywood and foam parts:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen1.jpg" border="0" alt="Parts" width="614" height="711" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
The foam wings/tail is about 3/32&quot; thick and the yellow color is only on the top surface; the wing has no dihedral or washout. Note that the wing has under-camber:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/wing.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing" width="500" height="108" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
- this is when the bottom of the wing is concave. An under-cambered wing is a high lift design and may perform extremely well at slow speeds but may become unstable at higher speeds &#8211; something to consider as you read on about the motor that comes with the Sig. The motor is, well, barely adequate:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen2.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor" width="450" height="267" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
It&#39;s geared down to 4.4:1; the problem I had with it is that it did not last more than an hour, if that &#8211; the gears wore quickly and stripped &#8211; not worth dealing with it.
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen3.jpg" border="0" alt="Gears" width="400" height="318" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Based on my experience with the my first Jenny, I reinforced the fuse with carbon fiber strap running its length and fiberglass cloth in high stress areas &#8211; the firewall and landing gear slots.
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen4.jpg" border="0" alt="Fuse Diagram" width="983" height="271" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
An inside shot of the CF strap and fiberglassing:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen7.jpg" border="0" alt="CF Strap" width="500" height="427" />
</div>
</div>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen8.jpg" border="0" alt="FBGLS" width="400" height="494" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
I also used CF strap to beef up tail surfaces, including inserting a strip inside the vertical stab:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen6.jpg" border="0" alt="Tail" width="500" height="413" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
I beefed up the fuse wing struts with CF strap:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen9.jpg" border="0" alt="Struts" width="600" height="439" />
</div>
</div>
<div align="left">
{mospagebreak}
</div>
<p align="left">
Due to the motor change, I also beefed up the firewall (one good smack and it will push in):
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen14.jpg" border="0" alt="Firewall" width="500" height="455" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The kit&#39;s firewall does not fully cover the fuse, so this overlaps it; I fiberglassed the inside firewall for added strength
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen12.jpg" border="0" alt="Inside Firewall" width="500" height="482" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
I mounted the Lipo behind the firewall, using foam to hold it in place:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen13.jpg" border="0" alt="Out and Bat" width="500" height="454" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
The DX6 servos fit perfectly in the kit&#39;s servo tray:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen10.jpg" border="0" alt="Servos" width="400" height="433" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
The kit features a small plywood piece for the tail dragger &#8211; I used a nylon wing saver instead:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen11.jpg" border="0" alt="Tail Rod" width="600" height="256" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Also note that epoxied a small CF tube for the control rod&#39;s exits:
</p>
<p align="left">
Finally, this wing is from the first kit &#8211; it&#39;s been extensively reinforced as it went suffered through forces for which it was NOT designed:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen15.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing" width="700" height="227" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
I managed to fold the wing in flight during some maneuvers that put a LOT of stress on them &#8211; fortunately it was over grass:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/ssigj/jen16.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing Bottom" width="700" height="173" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Based on what I learned, the second wing is reinforced with carbon fiber tubes embedded in its leading edge:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/carfib/cf2.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing CF" width="800" height="196" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
Flying
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
Flying with SIG&#39;s 180 was, well, uninspiring and I thought difficult &#8211; it&#39;s underpowered and has no real punch to get out of trouble, let alone do a loop. Best to figure replacing it and use the 180 for a paperweight &#8211; I did not get more than about an hour out of the 180 before it self-destructed (gears chipped and wore down very quickly).
</p>
<p align="left">
I indicated above that the under-cambered wing has no dihedral or washout &#8211; it&#39;s not very forgiving. However, I found that I could slow-fly it very nicely in tight circles with the E-Flite 400 throttled back and a light hand on the stick. With more power, the Jenny will do loops and rollovers nicely, although it will pick up speed quickly &#8211; lots of height recommended!
</p>
<p align="left">
With the under-cambered wing, as speed increases drag increases exponentially; this can lead to some funky flying. In truth, the Sig Jenny is not really designed to be much more than a slow-flyer, so pushing it as I did can sometimes result in unpredictable behavior &#8211; use LOTS of altitude when you rev it up.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
Overall this is one of my favorites &#8211; it&#39;s a fun plane to fly, looks great in the air and will slow-fly nicely. When pushed, however, I did not find it at all forgiving &#8211; not unexpected as it really was not designed for high speeds. I think I like this so much because it can be quite a challenge sometimes.
</p>
<p align="left">
NOTE: HobbyZone is releasing their <a href="http://www.hobbyzone.com/rc_planes_e-flite_jenny_jn-4.htm" target="_new"><strong><u><span style="color: #0000ff">E-flite Jenny JN-4 Slow Flyer ARF</span></u></strong></a> in March &#8211; this looks <strong>very</strong> similar to the Sig Jenny and I would speculate that it&#39;s an &quot;updated&quot; version of the Sig, with very much the same flight characteristics.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong>NOTE: This is a new site so please consider it a &quot;work in progress&quot;. I would greatly encourage readers to send in articles for posting on AmpAviators. In contrast to a forum, finding articles of interest will be TONS easier here.</strong> <!--</p>
<p><div align="center">
<a href="index03.htm" onMouseOver="window.status='on to page 3...'; return true" onMouseOut="window.status=''; return true"><b>CONTINUED page 3&#8230;</b></a>
</div>
<p>&#8211;>
</p>
<p align="left">
<span class="mh-hyperlinked"><a href='http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=' onclick="window.open('http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&amp;c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=', '', 'toolbar=0,scrollbars=0,location=0,statusbar=0,menubar=0,resizable=0,width=500,height=300'); return false;"><strong><u><span style="color: #0000ff">Email Joe</span></u></strong></a></span></p>
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