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<channel>
	<title>AmpAviators &#187; Building</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.ampaviators.com/category/building/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.ampaviators.com</link>
	<description>Unbiased information on all aspects of radio controlled electric planes</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:43:16 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
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		<item>
		<title>Converting a &#8220;Chuck Glider&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/06/14/converting-a-chuck-glider/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/06/14/converting-a-chuck-glider/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:13:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I wanted something for equipment checks with no time invested and very little money wasted. So here is a plane that cost about $5 and took two hours to build from start to first flight. It&#8217;s one of those styro chuck gliders. I added a 1/8 sheet tail, 1/8 ailerons, popsicle sticks for servo mounts [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I wanted something for equipment checks with no time invested and very little money wasted. So here is a plane that cost about $5 and took two hours to build from start to first flight.</p>
<p><span id="more-103"></span></p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/package1.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="270" height="633" /></div>
<p>It&#8217;s one of those styro chuck gliders. I added a 1/8 sheet tail, 1/8 ailerons, popsicle sticks for servo mounts and part of an orange crate for a lite ply firewall.</p>
<p>That&#8217;s it and it flew great. The wings flexed too much so I covered the wing with some 4 inch wide clear packing tape &#8211; it stiffens the wing a lot.</p>
<p>By the way, this would probably make a good aileron trainer. I flew it again and it flies much better with the tape on the wing.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a quick build explanation so you can duplicate this plane:</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Motor Installation </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The motor is an E-Max CF 2212, $15.00; the battery is a 900 MAH 3 cell &#8211; $22.00 &#8211; both from Blackdogrc.</p>
<p>1. Cut nose off fuselage at 5 1/4 inches, measured from forward edge of wing cut out.<br />
Trace nose on Lite ply, 1/8 approximate. I used ply from orange crate.<br />
Glue ply to fuse,I used Gorilla glue, Titebond or epoxy will also work.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/nosecut3.jpg" border="0" alt="Cut" width="700" height="307" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/firewall5.jpg" border="0" alt="Front" width="700" height="389" /></div>
<p>2. Wings. Sand leading edge to round shape, my glider came through with a flat leading edge. Cover wing with packing tape. I used wide clear tape.</p>
<p>3. Glue wing to fuselage, I used GWS glue, but Gorilla glue or epoxy will also work.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Stabilizer Cut and Fit </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stablne9.jpg" border="0" alt="Body Measure" width="800" height="270" /></div>
<p>4. Place yardstick along bottom side of wing, mark line at rear of fuselage.</p>
<p>Mark up from line 3/8 and 1/2 inch and draw parallel lines. This is for stab opening. Cut open, I used a band saw, but a hacksaw or knife should also work. See pictures.</p>
<p>5. Cut stab from sheet of 1/8 thick balsa.<br />
Mine is 19 3/4 long, that&#8217;s the piece I had laying around, a little shorter should be OK.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stablayout1.jpg" border="0" alt="Diagram" width="600" height="400" /></div>
<p>I cut leading edge back to give leading edge a sweep. I took the pieces I cut off and turned them around and re glued them back on the leading edge.</p>
<p>6. Glue stab to fuselage, I used epoxy.<br />
The elevator is 1 inch wide 1/8 thick balsa, hinged at 4 places.<br />
I used GWS hinges, with GWS glue. CA hinges will also work.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stabline11.jpg" border="0" alt="Stab Cut" width="700" height="386" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stabslot8.jpg" border="0" alt="Stab Cut" width="700" height="454" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stabwdth12.jpg" border="0" alt="Stab Measure" width="524" height="590" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Final Assembly </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>7. The ailerons are 1 inch wide by 24 1/4&#8243; long, made of 1/8&#8243; balsa &#8211; that was the size piece I had &#8211; a little shorter would still work.</p>
<p>8. Next hinge the ailerons &#8211; I used 3 hinges per side, GWS hinges with GWS glue.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/ailhngd6w.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Build" width="800" height="380" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/stabon9.jpg" border="0" alt="Body View" width="800" height="438" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/aillngt8.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Measure" width="700" height="648" /></div>
<p>Cut servo openings, glue popsicle sticks to wing for servo mounts.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/ailser4.jpg" border="0" alt="Servos" width="800" height="598" /></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>The Finished Product </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>The CG balance point is 2 inches back from the leading edge at the side of the fuselage.<br />
The plane flies over 15 minutes at half power, and with a little wind it thermaled; with full power it climbs quite steeply.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/rtf10w.jpg" border="0" alt="Done" width="700" height="376" /></div>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/top12w.jpg" border="0" alt="Top View RTF" width="800" height="501" /></div>
<p>The thread on this topic can be found <a href="http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20347" target="_new"><strong>HERE.</strong></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Boomer&#8217;s Black Wing Build</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/06/07/boomers-black-wing-build/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/06/07/boomers-black-wing-build/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[RC SuperPowers is marketing an inexpensive foamie that looks great and is an easy build &#8211; I saw Boomer&#39;s mods to the basic kit and he kindly agreed to allow us to post his work. &#160; BlackWing 3D &#8211; $9.99 &#160; Dimensions in inches: 26.5 wide / 19.5 long / 8.75 high Weight in ounces: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>RC SuperPowers is marketing an inexpensive foamie that looks great and is an easy build &#8211; I saw Boomer&#39;s mods to the basic kit and he kindly agreed to allow us to post his work.<br />
<br /><span id="more-102"></span>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<a href="http://www.rcpowers.com/BlackWing/bwabout.htm" target="_new"><strong>BlackWing 3D &#8211; $9.99</strong></a>
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/bwpic.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="590" height="451" />
</div>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
<span>Dimensions in inches: 26.5 wide / 19.5 long / 8.75 high<br />
Weight in ounces: 2.4oz foam kit / Approx. 10oz flying weight</span>
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
<strong>Recommended Gear:</strong>
</p>
<ul>
<li>4 + channel radio with elevator/aileron mixing (elevons)
	</li>
<li>(3) Hitec 56 servos
	</li>
<li>E-flite 400 Outrunner
	</li>
<li>25 amp ESC
	</li>
<li>1300 mAh 3 cell Lithium
	</li>
<li>10&#215;3.8 APC Prop
	</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Hardware needed:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>(1) 3mm, 26&quot; long, carbon rod
	</li>
<li>(2) 3mm, 8 ½&quot; long, carbon rods
	</li>
<li>(1) 2-3mm, 14&quot; long carbon rod
	</li>
<li>(2) 4 ½&quot; x 1 1/8&quot; x 3/8&quot; pieces of balsa wood
	</li>
<li>Control linkage, hinges or aileron tape
	</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Tools:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>30 min epoxy
	</li>
<li>Toothpicks (10)
	</li>
<li>Pins (10)
	</li>
<li>Razor blade / hobby knife
	</li>
<li>Screwdriver + (4) 1/2&quot; screws for motor mount
	</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Paint:</strong></p>
<p>
The BlackWing 6mm depron kit comes in 8 precut pieces and can easily be put together in a couple evenings. Kit also includes detailed photographic directions. Remember, it does not come with the radio, servos, battery, motor, supports, or hardware. The BlackWing is intended for intermediate flyers with RC airplane experience, preferably someone who has already built and flown other 3D models.
</p>
<p>
Download the <a href="http://www.rcpowers.com/BlackWing/BWInstructions.htm" target="_new"><strong>Manual</strong></a>.
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Above courtesy of RC SuperPowers.com
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
<strong><span>ED NOTE: Boomer&#39;s was kind enough to allow us to post his Black Wing Build &#8211; what is interesting are the mods from the stock kit that Boomer added &#8211; they are shown below in pictures:</span></strong>
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20top%20progress.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20bottom%20progress.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Bottom%20View.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="446" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Semi-Finished%20Bottom%20View%20.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="508" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/Firewall%20Brace%20Top%20View.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/Quarter%20inch%20Balsa%20braces.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/Firewall%20Brace.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Landing%20Gear.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/LG%20Brace%20Axle%20Attachment.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/Rear%20LG%20Anchor.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/Tail%20Skid.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Front%20Side%20View.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Finished%20Front%20View%20.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="445" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Rear%20Qtr%20View.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="480" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW%20Finished%20Top%20View%20Rear.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="640" height="408" />
</div>
<p>
<!--</p>
<p><div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW Front Qtr View.jpg" width=640 height=480 border=0 alt="Pic">
</div>
<p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/BW Finished Side View .jpg" width=640 height=429 border=0 alt="Pic">
</div>
<p>
&#8211;>
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Boomer&#39;s Performance Notes
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
I ran power meter tests using a 1200 3S 20C Polyquest pack weighing 3.7 oz and a 2100 3S Apex 15C pack weighing 5.6 oz.<br />
The 1200 pack read 106 Watts @ 11.6 Amps and the 2100 pack read 165 Watts @ 15 Amps.
</p>
<p>
The 15 Amp is one amp over the continious current rating of the motor but will go down rapidly as the prop unloads in the air. AUW with the 1200 is 15.9 oz and with 2100 is 17.8 oz. So with the 1200, I have 107 watts/lb and a wing loading of about 6.6 oz/sq ft.
</p>
<p>
With the 2100, its 148.6 watt/lb with a wing loading of approximately 7.5 oz/sq ft; with that kind of power, wings are really unecessary anyway so I&#39;ll go with the 2100!
</p>
<p>
Mods are extensive and include the landing gear, front carbon loop prop guard, extra carbon rod reinforcing, plywood reinforced firewall, E-flite Park 450 motor instead of recommended Park 400, tail skid and the use of UHU Glue instead of the recommended epoxy.
</p>
<p>
Link to <a href="http://www.boomerseflight.com/videos/" target="_new"><strong>Boomer&#39;s Maiden Flight</strong></a> &#8211; click on <strong>BlackWing Maiden.wmv</strong>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Foamflyer&#8217;s Single Ailerons</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/04/17/foamflyers-single-ailerons/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/04/17/foamflyers-single-ailerons/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[What&#39;s all this about single ailerons you ask? Let me explain: Many of my planes use single ailerons for roll control &#8211; that is, an aileron only on one wing panel. The idea is of course not original &#8211; I saw a plane many years ago called the &#34;Undertaker&#34;. It was a balsa and film [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What&#39;s all this about single ailerons you ask? Let me explain:<br />
<br /><span id="more-101"></span>
<p>
<strong>Many of my planes use single ailerons for roll control &#8211; that is, an aileron only on one wing panel</strong>.
</p>
<p>
The idea is of course not original &#8211; I saw a plane many years ago called the &quot;Undertaker&quot;. It was a balsa and film pylon racer powered by a little 1/2A (like an .049) glow engine with a single aileron.
</p>
<p>
In my model building endeavors to make things simple and inexpensive, I decided to try a single aileron. The first of my planes to employ this was the So.5, which was also my first twin-boom foamie pusher. Needless to say, it worked very well. All I had to do to compensate for not having the traditional two ailerons was to either have the surface area of the single aileron bigger, or have more control travel, or both. Soon I was building planes that had roll rates like planes with two ailerons. I couldn&#39;t notice the difference in flight, but was reaping the benefits of the idea.
</p>
<p>
So what are the benefits?
</p>
<ol>
<li>A simpler design &#8211; less complexity. I don&#39;t have to make an aileron torque rod arrangement to control two ailerons.
	</li>
<li>Lighter weight. The lack of the aileron torque rod arrangement.
	</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>The drawbacks? One minor one &#8211; the plane looks funny!</strong> </p>
<p>
So what I normally do (if I care about the appearance of the plane) is draw panel lines for the missing aileron. Pretty trivial huh? Aerodynamically there&#39;s probably some problem with aileron differential, and the rolls are probably not perfectly axial, but I don&#39;t really care with the types of planes I build and fly.
</p>
<p>
Some people think a plane with a single aileron won&#39;t fly; some think you can only turn in one direction, or that the plane only turns well in one direction. I&#39;ve found this to not be the case.
</p>
<p>
Here&#39;s the single aileron on my &quot;Miss Swiss&quot; plane. Notice this is the bottom of the wing. The servo (in this case a Hitec HS-81) is what I call &quot;flat mounted&quot; into a cavity in the foam with clear packing tape to secure it. Then there&#39;s the regular pushrod and control horn:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0417071.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="375" />
</div>
<p>
And here&#39;s the single aileron on my &quot;Micron&quot; plane. Again this photo shows the bottom of the wing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0417072.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="375" />
</div>
<p>
Reprinted with permission by <a href="http://www.qnet.com/~skif/rcmain.html" target="_new"><strong>FoamFlyer.</strong></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>&#8220;BeeGee&#8221; EPP Foam Build</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/04/16/beegee-epp-foam-build/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/04/16/beegee-epp-foam-build/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#39;ve been flying a Lightflite RC Bug for about a month (BUG Review HERE) and I have been having so much fun with it I decided I&#39;d try my hand at building a foamie using some of the Bug&#39;s construction techniques in the process. I wanted to try some construction ideas I had, so I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#39;ve been flying a Lightflite RC Bug for about a month <a href="index.php?option=com_content&amp;task=view&amp;id=46&amp;Itemid=29" target="_new"><strong>(BUG Review HERE)</strong></a> and I have been having so much fun with it I decided I&#39;d try my hand at building a foamie using some of the Bug&#39;s construction techniques in the process.<br />
<br /><span id="more-100"></span><br />I wanted to try some construction ideas I had, so I bought some EPP foam and carbon fiber materials from SloFly.com, along with a CD ROM motor and ESC from Lightflite.com. I chose a &quot;BeeGee&quot; shape because I like the look and I liberally used the Lightflite Bug as a starting point for size and construction techniques.</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416071.jpg" border="0" alt="BG" width="700" height="489" />
</div>
<p>
<strong>Material List:</strong>
</p>
<ul>
<li>1  40&quot; x 3mm x 1mm flat carbon fiber strip
	</li>
<li>1  40&quot; x 5mm x 0.5mm flat carbon fiber strip
	</li>
<li>1  30&quot; x 1/8&quot; (3mm) carbon fiber tube
	</li>
<li>1  48&quot; x 1/16&quot; carbon fiber rod
	</li>
<li>2  9mm EPP 35&quot; x 11&quot; EPP sheets
	</li>
<li>1 CD ROM motor, Mounting Tube and GWS 10 x 6 HD Prop
	</li>
<li>1 Castle Creations Thunderbird 9 ESC
	</li>
<li>Spektrum AR 6000 receiver, 3 Spektrum S75 servos
	</li>
<li>Thunder Power 2 cell 910 mah lipo, JST male/female plugs
	</li>
<li>Miscellaneous lengths of small surgical, vinyl and heatshrink tubing, and 1/16&quot; wire
	</li>
<li>2 Wingsavers
	</li>
<li>Lightweight wheels
	</li>
<li>&quot;UHU Creativ&quot; Glue and CA plus kicker, Blenderm tape for hinges
	</li>
</ul>
<p>Some of this material I had on hand, but I would estimate the total cost without receiver and servos at about $130. I would add that in working with foam, you need an absolutely sharp cutting tool, either a new razor blade or X-Acto knife with a new blade.</p>
<p>
I took one piece of EPP to use as the wing; I marked off the center and used a 40&quot; carbon fiber strap to mark and round off the wing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160714.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing Cut" width="600" height="385" />
</div>
<p>
I traced and then cut the BeeGee body (18&quot; x 6½&quot; at the tail) from the second piece:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160715.jpg" border="0" alt="Body" width="500" height="224" />
</div>
<p>
I then cut the ailerons (2 x 4&quot; x 11½&quot;) from what was left, rounding the edges. Then I cut the rudder from the body, fashioning slots/tabs to hold the body to the wing and a space for the motor mount:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160716.jpg" border="0" alt="Parts" width="700" height="572" />
</div>
<p>
The light line you see in the wing is a carbon fiber strap embedded into the wing. I used a straight edge to cut a slot halfway through the wing, then glued the strap into the wing using the UHU glue. To keep the wing flat, I put plastic wrap over the slit and weighted the wing down with heavy books, letting it set overnight. Also glue a carbon fiber tube to the wing&#39;s leading edge on the bottom surface.
</p>
<p>
I used the Blenderm tape for hinges &#8211; smear a small amount of UHU glue along the edges of the ailerons and rudder, letting it get tacky, and then tape. The UHU is also used to glue the carbon fiber strap along the wing&#39;s edge. Glue one side using tape to hold it in place, and then glue the other side. Last glue the motor tube into place.
</p>
<p>
The result:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160717.jpg" border="0" alt="Body Fin" width="600" height="422" />
</div>
<p>
Now begin to add all the stuff that makes it go. One other wing reinforcement I did was to add a carbon fiber strap on each side of the wing &#8211; this to limit the wing&#39;s flexing. The aileron servos were placed on the bottom:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416073.jpg" border="0" alt="Bottom" width="600" height="551" />
</div>
<p>
To mount the servos, I taped the sides contacting the body with a strip of Blenderm tape, then used the UHU to glue the servo in place. By taping the servo first, it&#39;s easier to remove &#8211; the glue stays on the tape, not the servo&#39;s body. Once the servo is mounted, hook up the receiver, center the servo arm and then use a piece of 1/16&quot; wire for the control rod:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416074.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Servo" width="600" height="206" />
</div>
<p>
For the ailerons, I used the longest aileron servo arm for the S75 and cut off one side. I used a wing tip protector for the control horn, drilling a 1/16&quot; hole near the top for the control rod:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416075.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Horn" width="300" height="229" />
</div>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<p>
{mospagebreak}
</p>
<p>
The battery is held in place with velcro; the receiver is zip-tied on one side&#8230;
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416072.jpg" border="0" alt="Bat" width="500" height="274" />
</div>
<p>
&#8230;while the ESC is on the other:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416079.jpg" border="0" alt="ESC" width="600" height="309" />
</div>
<p>
The rudder servo is also on this side. The control rod for the rudder is a copy of the techniques used in the Lightflite Bug &#8211; embed/UHU glue a short length of carbon fiber rod in the rudder, use a short length of tubing to CA it to a longer carbon fiber rod, then epoxy or CA a short piece of 1/16&quot; wire from the servo arm to the cf rod. The plastic tubing at the rudder flexes, giving a nice throw:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160710.jpg" border="0" alt="Rud Rod" width="600" height="459" />
</div>
<p>
The CD ROM motor is held on the tube with a small screw:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416077.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor Mount" width="500" height="366" />
</div>
<p>
The landing gear is another copy from the Lightflite Bug &#8211; take a length of cf rod and bend it into a &quot;U&quot; shape &#8211; this was 20&quot; long. Cut another piece 11&quot; for the axle. Mount a piece of plastic tubing (3&quot; long) on the center of the axle. On the &quot;U&quot; shaped tube &#8211; this is for the landing gear&#39;s shock absorber.
</p>
<p>
The shock absorber consists of a 5&quot; length of cf rod, one end attached to the landing gear and the other to the body. I used a short length of surgical tubing to mount the cf rod to the plane&#39;s body. You can&#39;t drill into EPP &#8211; I used a small phillips head screwdriver as a drill, twisting it slowly into the foam. Once the surgical tubing is glued into the body, I then glued a small plastic strip over it to keep the tube from ripping out on landing.
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416076.jpg" border="0" alt="LG Shock" width="500" height="435" />
</div>
<p>
The landing gear is held to the body with zip-ties to the cf tube on the wing&#39;s leading edge. I used four short lengths of surgical tubing to hold it in place (what&#39;s nice about the surgical tubing is that you don&#39;t have to glue it).
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160718.jpg" border="0" alt="LG Zip" width="500" height="272" />
</div>
<p>
The axle is held in place with a 2&quot; length of vinyl tubing &#8211; cut a small slit in the middle and place one side of the &quot;U&quot; in it and the axle in the other &#8211; use CA with kicker to glue it:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160719.jpg" border="0" alt="LG Joint" width="300" height="301" />
</div>
<p>
I used a wheel from a SIG Jenny, held in place with a short length of surgical tubing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/0416078.jpg" border="0" alt="Wheel" width="400" height="393" />
</div>
<p>
The cf strap along the wing is reinforced using tape on the front and rear:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160711.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing Side" width="600" height="254" />
</div>
<p>
Last, I fashioned a rear tail strut from a small piece of EPP; I glued a plastic strip from a zip tie on its surface to give it some protection from landing:
</p>
<p>
&nbsp;
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/artimages/04160712.jpg" border="0" alt="Tail Drag" width="600" height="241" />
</div>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
Flying Notes
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
I only had a chance for the three flights in-between rain storms &#8211; here&#39;s the video:
</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNedIwls-2w" target="_new"><strong>BeeGee Flight Video</strong></a>
</p>
<p>
I used low rates and exponential and found it still quite responsive. You MUST check the rudder and aileron surfaces to ensure that they are absolutely flat to the wing and body &#8211; any deviation and you will see it right away. Overall I&#39;m very pleased with how the &quot;BeeGee&quot; turned out &#8211; it&#39;s easy to slow-fly it and super responsive.
</p>
<p>
<strong>Key Dimensions</strong>
</p>
<ul>
<li>Wing 11 3/4&quot; x 24&quot;
	</li>
<li>Aileron 4&quot; x 11 1/2&quot;
	</li>
<li>Body 4&quot; x 15&quot; with tallest 6&quot;
	</li>
<li>Rudder 3 1/2&quot; x 6 1/4&quot;
	</li>
<li>Carbon fiber strap 3&quot; from wing&#39;s rear edge
	</li>
<li>Servo rods &#8211; rudder 10&quot; total length, aileron 5 5/8&quot;
	</li>
<li>Rudder servo 4 3/4&quot; from wing rear edge
	</li>
<li>Aileron servo 5 1/2&quot; from wing rear edge
	</li>
<li>CG 4 1/2&quot; from LE
	</li>
<li>Weight less battery 6 ounces
	</li>
</ul>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Home-Brew Motor/Prop Tester</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/08/home-brew-motorprop-tester/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/08/home-brew-motorprop-tester/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Mar 2007 14:01:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As a means to &#8220;de-mystify&#8221; what motor/prop combinations yield, a few hours effort can pay big dividends Home-Brew Motor/Prop Tester One of the areas that I see many forum posts has to do with prop selection &#8211; &#8220;Will this work OK with this motor?&#8221; is quite common. I have the same questions and decided to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As a means to &#8220;de-mystify&#8221; what motor/prop combinations yield, a few hours effort can pay big dividends</p>
<p><span id="more-99"></span></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Home-Brew Motor/Prop Tester </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr1.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="450" height="675" /></div>
<p>One of the areas that I see many forum posts has to do with prop selection &#8211; &#8220;Will this work OK with this motor?&#8221; is quite common. I have the same questions and decided to build a simple test rig to test gear I have on hand. The pic above shows what I built.</p>
<p>I recently bought a digital postal scale from Staples (Pelouze &#8211; about $60) and its accuracy and range fits quite well &#8211; it maxes out at 5 pounds and reads to 0.1 ounces &#8211; it also can switch between ounces and grams, which I used in the tests. I built a very simple stand to hold the meter in a fixed position:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr2.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="506" /></div>
<p>The base is 20&#8243; x 7½&#8221;; two side stanchions are 10&#8243; x 3&#8243; with the holes for the positioning rod 8 7/8&#8243; from the bottom &#8211; the holes were drilled so that the post on which the motor is attached contacts the digital scale in the middle of its platform.</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr3.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="300" height="539" /></div>
<p>The rod was something I scrounged in my workshop &#8211; 11&#8243; x ¼&#8221; diameter. I drilled a hole for the rod (free floating) in the middle of the motor mounting arm:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr4.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="153" /></div>
<p>I then positioned the center of the motor 4&#8243; from the center of the rod and positioned a plastic foot the same distance in the other direction:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr5.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="700" height="186" /></div>
<p>I used a hefty block on the back to make sure the scale does not move:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr9.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="400" height="533" /></div>
<p>The setup involves the following gear:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr6.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="629" /></div>
<ul>
<li>Watt Meter to measure energy throughput</li>
<li>Servo Tester to act as the ESC&#8217;s throttle input</li>
<li>Esc</li>
<li>Lipol Battery</li>
<li>Motor / Prop to be tested</li>
<li>Tachometer</li>
</ul>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr8.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="250" height="457" /></div>
<div><a href="http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HHT10&amp;Nav=h01" target="_new"><strong>Omega Digital Tachometer</strong></a></div>
<p>When I first started it up, it became quickly apparent that the spinning prop could do some real damage if it let loose or a stray finger got in the way. I scrounged around the shop and found this grill from an electric heater:</p>
<div><img src="/images/stories/articles/tstr/tstr7.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="450" height="619" /></div>
<p>I <strong>NEVER</strong> put myself in front of this when testing! I also measure rpms from the <strong>BACK</strong> of the prop.</p>
<p>To ascertain how this rig compares to published data, I used my Scorpion 2215-22 as the test motor with two GWS SF props I have &#8211; these were used in the Scorpion website on the <a href="http://innov8tivedesigns.com/Scorpion/Scorpion%202215-22%20Specs.htm" target="_new"><strong>Prop Data Chart</strong></a> for this motor.</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>Scorpion 2215-22 Outrunner &#8211; Prop Test Thrust Results </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div></div>
<table border="1" width="450">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="35%"><strong>Prop &#8211; Tester</strong></td>
<td width="15%"><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> Total Watts In </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td width="15%"><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> Thrust &#8211; grams </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td width="15%"><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> Prop RPM </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td width="15%"><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> grams / 1000 rpm </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>GWS SF 9 x 7 &#8211; Scorpion</strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 151 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 581 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 6450 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 90 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>GWS SF 9 x 7 &#8211; Joe</strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 143 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 650 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 6834 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 95 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>GWS SF 10 x 4.7 &#8211; Scorpion</strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 144 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 830 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 6575 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 126 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>GWS SF 10 x 4.7 &#8211; Joe</strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 157 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 858 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 6609 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong> 130 </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<div><strong>CONCLUSIONS </strong></div>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>I am very pleased with how my test results track with Scorpion&#8217;s test data &#8211; close enough to give me some confidence that I can rely on results when configuring a model; my results are marginally higher and I&#8217;ll take that into consideration. The design shown here is really very simple and can be assembled and ready for testing in a few hours.</p>
<p>As a means to &#8220;de-mystify&#8221; what motor/prop combinations yield, a few hours effort can pay big dividends &#8211; I can more easily see &#8220;sweet spots&#8221; where I get plenty of thrust for a model&#8217;s weight and yet maximize flight times with a given motor/prop/Lipo configuration.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Carbon Fiber Frame Test</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/05/carbon-fiber-frame-test/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/03/05/carbon-fiber-frame-test/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Tough stuff &#8211; how I tested it Earlier I wrote about using carbon fiber tubes as building blocks in model construction. I built the basic box frame pictured below: I had some time to kill so I decided to flesh it out to fly it. Now bear in mind that I started this as a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tough stuff &#8211; how I tested it<br />
<br /><span id="more-98"></span>
<p>
Earlier I wrote about <a href="http://www.ampaviators.com/articlecfbw/" onmouseover="window.status='CF Tubes...'; return true" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true"><strong>using carbon fiber tubes</strong></a> as building blocks in model construction. I built the basic box frame pictured below:
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb2.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame" width="600" height="473" />
</div>
<p>
I had some time to kill so I decided to flesh it out to fly it. Now bear in mind that I started this as a build concept, so I really did not have a specific design in mind. I used some basic parameters from <a href="http://adamone.rchomepage.com/design.htm" target="_new"><strong>HERE</strong></a> and decided to use the wing from my HobbyZone Super Cub. Framed out it looked like this:
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/diy/xp1.jpg" border="0" alt="Framed" width="600" height="321" />
</div>
<p>
I loaded it up with Spektrum s75 servos for the tail and rudder and used the <a href="http://www.ampaviators.com/articlescorp/" onmouseover="window.status='Scorpion...'; return true" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true"><strong>Scorpion Motor and ESC</strong></a> for powering it with a 2100 Lipo with a GWS EP 11 x 8 prop. All up it weighed in at 25 ounces &#8211; about the same weight as the stock Super Cub, so not unreasonable.
</p>
<p>
Usually I like to first run a new model on the ground to get a feel for it, but as there was snow on the ground, I couldn&#39;t this time, so I decided to hand launch it. I pre-flighted making sure the controls were OK, launched and it took off like a shot heading towards the ground. I gave it up a little up elevator and it flew straight ahead at a good clip. I applied some rudder to turn it away from the rapidly looming trees, and NOTHING.
</p>
<p>
Right, left &#8211; nothing. I quickly throttled down and it made a rough landing but clear of the trees.
</p>
<p>
Figuring maybe the vertical stab was too large, I cut it and the elevator back (that&#39;s the picture above). Out again and same thing &#8211; great flying straight ahead, but does not turn.
</p>
<p>
Then I figure maybe not enough control movement so I move the control rods to get more deflection and try again.
</p>
<p>
Same deal! This is now the third dirt crunch and I figure &quot;enough of this!&quot; I think the problem was that the Super Cub wing&#39;s stability overwhelmed the small rudder, further rendered ineffective by the small moment arm of the frame&#39;s length. I proved my point that this construction method in fact is pretty tough &#8211; the only damage to the plane was a small chip off the balsa frame by the firewall:
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/diy/xp2.jpg" border="0" alt="Close Firewall" width="450" height="355" />
</div>
<p>
The front was unscathed:
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/diy/xp3.jpg" border="0" alt="Front" width="450" height="411" />
</div>
<p>
I&#39;m satisfied that this frame can take a beating, but how much? I&#39;m not going to fly it into a brick wall to find out, so I decided to place it between two stacks of books and stand on it. I very tenderly lower myself into place and it creaks a little but holds my 175 pounds &#8211; not bad!
</p>
<p>
I have to get a picture of this, so I set it up and tell my wife to get the camera. While she&#39;s getting it, I step on it again, only this time was the killer &#8211; I crunched it:
</p>
<div align="center">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/diy/xp4.jpg" border="0" alt="Stepped On" width="700" height="394" />
</div>
<p>
Damn! That would have been a great picture!
</p>
<p>
However, I must point out that I stood on the frame&#39;s mid point &#8211; this is typically not where models fail in hard landing or crashes, unless somehow you manage to fly into a wall sideways at a real good clip. I have no doubt that if I stood on this frame lengthwise, it would hold my weight no problem; I thought about doing this but balancing on the firewall or tail end was not in the cards for me.
</p>
<p>
<strong></p>
<div align="center">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p>
Carbon fiber tube construction in a frame will result in considerable strength, greatly exceeding the failure point of typical balsa or foam frames by a wide margin. Coupling this construction method with a sound plane design should yield a very durable, long lived model.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Carbon Fiber Tube &#8220;Building Blocks&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/21/carbon-fiber-tube-building-blocks/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/21/carbon-fiber-tube-building-blocks/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Feb 2007 05:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Rugged DIY building Carbon fiber is one of those materials that can transform the way we do things &#8211; it&#39;s light and super strong. For the DIY builder designing a plane to take the inevitable &#34;close encounter of the ground kind&#34;, carbon fiber tubes can make excellent building blocks for frames and wings. To try [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rugged DIY building<br />
<br /><span id="more-94"></span>
<p align="left">
Carbon fiber is one of those materials that can transform the way we do things &#8211; it&#39;s light and super strong. For the DIY builder designing a plane to take the inevitable &quot;close encounter of the ground kind&quot;, carbon fiber tubes can make excellent building blocks for frames and wings. To try out this out, I started to build a &quot;demo plane&quot; using carbon fiber tubing.
</p>
<p align="left">
After ruminating a bit about how to ensure a light but structurally sound frame, I started with the firewall. I made a jig to keep the firewall perpendicular to the bottom two tubes and attached four tubes to the firewall:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb4.jpg" border="0" alt="Firewall" width="450" height="495" />
</div>
<p align="left">
As the tubes are at the outermost edge of the firewall, a good smack might dislodge them. I decided to bind the tubes to the firewall using a combination of fiberglass tape around its perimeter, then tying the tubes together with piano wire inserted into the tubes about one inch.
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb6.jpg" border="0" alt="Firewall Inside" width="500" height="606" />
</div>
<p align="left">
I used the same technique for the rear &#8211; epoxy and tying the tubes together with piano wire:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb7.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame Rear" width="308" height="365" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The landing gear is bound to the bottom of the firewall, completing a basic frame:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb2.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame" width="600" height="473" />
</div>
<p align="left">
This weighed in at about four ounces &#8211; depending on what&#39;s used for skin, the basic frame could weigh in at about 6 ounces with something like Sig Koverall, and on up if balsa is used. The landing gear is the <a href="http://www.ampaviators.com/articlelg/" onmouseover="window.status='Soyo SY6BA +III Review...'; return true" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true"><strong><u>shock absorber that I wrote about earlier</u></strong></a>:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb5.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame Bottom" width="500" height="563" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The bottom piece is 1/16&quot; plywood for strength.
</p>
<p align="left">
Wing construction is another natural to use carbon fiber tubes as wing spars:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb1.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing" width="700" height="190" />
</div>
<p align="left">
This wing is composed of 1/16&quot; plywood ribs with three carbon fiber tubes used as spars. I shaped the ribs by bolting them together and using a stationary belt sander to shape all of them at once &#8211; this ensured that they were identical. I then drilled out holes (while still bolted together) for the spars, which were epoxied in place.
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/cfbw/cfwb3.jpg" border="0" alt="Wing Close" width="550" height="489" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The resulting wing was 36&quot; long, too short for the model I finally decided to build, so I&#39;m going to build a 48&quot; version with an 8½&quot; chord. The wing with just the ribs and tubes weighed in at about 4 ounces &#8211; once again the covering will determine the final weight.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
Building a plane to take some knocks does not mean it has to be built like a tank &#8211; carbon fiber tubes offer light and strong building blocks for modelers who want to roll their own.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong>NOTE: This is a new site so please consider it a &quot;work in progress&quot;. I would greatly encourage readers to send in articles for posting on AmpAviators. In contrast to a forum, finding articles of interest will be TONS easier here.</strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
<span class="mh-hyperlinked"><a href='http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=' onclick="window.open('http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&amp;c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=', '', 'toolbar=0,scrollbars=0,location=0,statusbar=0,menubar=0,resizable=0,width=500,height=300'); return false;"><strong><u>Email Joe</u></strong></a></span></p>
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		<title>Shock Absorbing Landing Gear</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/13/shock-absorbing-landing-gear/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/13/shock-absorbing-landing-gear/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An idea for a simple shock absorber I recently built Sig&#39;s Jenny JN4 ARF (HERE &#8211; look under &#34;ARF Scale Models&#34;) which I&#39;ll review soon. Pic courtesy of Sig Mfg One of the things that intrigued me on this model was the landing gear: This is designed to absorb shock &#8211; the thin struts flex [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An idea for a simple shock absorber<br />
<br /><span id="more-95"></span>
<p align="left">
I recently built Sig&#39;s Jenny JN4 ARF <a href="http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig" target="_new"><strong><u>(HERE &#8211; look under &quot;ARF Scale Models&quot;)</u></strong></a> which I&#39;ll review soon.
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="http://www.ampaviators.com/articlelg/Jenny.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="300" height="188" />
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
<span>Pic courtesy of Sig Mfg</span>
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
One of the things that intrigued me on this model was the landing gear:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg6.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="423" />
</div>
<p align="left">
This is designed to absorb shock &#8211; the thin struts flex and thereby act as shock absorbers &#8211; in use I found that they tended more to distort on a hard landing and I had to straighten them out, easy enough to do. However, I liked the idea and thought about amending it a bit to make it a real shock absorber &#8211; so I came up with this:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg1.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="467" />
</div>
<p align="left">
A side view shows the troika-like framework:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg5.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="450" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The idea is pretty simple &#8211; after bending the wire into a shape similar to the Jenny, I then added two struts which freely slide inside an aluminum tube:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg2.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="261" />
</div>
<p align="left">
I affixed the two sliding struts by soldering after wrapping the struts with copper wire &#8211; solder would not adhere to the piano wire gear, and I also wanted some flexing in the joints. On landing, the gear should absorb shock by sliding back:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg3.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="266" />
</div>
<p align="left">
Another wrinkle is to mount a rubber band so that it will absorb shock as well. I also used the copper-wrapping technique to hold the three parts of the landing gear together:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/lg/lg4.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="450" height="401" />
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
When the weather clears I&#39;ll set this experimental model up and see how effective the landing gear is &#8211; interesting to see what happens during inactive flying time due to weather.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong><span>NOTE: Ed was nice enough to send this note on soldering piano wire:</span></strong>
</p>
<p><span>&quot;How to solder piano wire: </span><span></p>
<p align="left">
First, sand the area to be soldered to remove any oils from the surface of the music wire.
</p>
<p align="left">
Next purchase a bottle of Tinners Fluid &#8211; this is an acid which etches and cleans the music wire&#39;s surface and preps it for soldering. Use caution when using and follow the safety directions.
</p>
<p align="left">
After wrapping the music wire with copper wire (Sig sells a 0.016 diameter soft copper wire for wrapping), clean the assembly with Tinners Fluid. It takes a LOT of heat to solder music wire &#8211; it does not asborb heat or hold it as quickly as copper wire.
</p>
<p align="left">
Place the tip of your soldering iron on the music wire and place the solder on the copper wire windings at the opposite end from where you are applying heat. When the solder melts, it will flow to the soldering iron&#39;s tip and fill the spaces around the copper wire.
</p>
<p align="left">
The secret to good soldering is clean surfaces and PLENTY of heat.&quot;<span style="font-size: 12pt"> </span>
</p>
<p></span></p>
<p align="left">
<strong>NOTE: This is a new site so please consider it a &quot;work in progress&quot;. I would greatly encourage readers to send in articles for posting on AmpAviators. In contrast to a forum, finding articles of interest will be TONS easier here.</strong> <!--</p>
<p><div align="center">
<a href="index02.asp" onMouseOver="window.status='on to page 2...'; return true" onMouseOut="window.status=''; return true"><b>CONTINUED page 2&#8230;</b></a>
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<span class="mh-hyperlinked"><a href='http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=' onclick="window.open('http://mailhide.recaptcha.net/d?k=01-xubw9ryyrDs1Ld7pC1R7g==&amp;c=tSfI3Up6tjbyS8cEJ-4r9KUfTAs7Po4HsgJrjJqunLI=', '', 'toolbar=0,scrollbars=0,location=0,statusbar=0,menubar=0,resizable=0,width=500,height=300'); return false;"><strong><u>Email Joe</u></strong></a></span></p>
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		<title>Nasty Toes Foam Wing</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/12/nasty-toes-foam-wing/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/12/nasty-toes-foam-wing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An easy way to add a quality wing to your DIY project I&#39;m experimenting with different wing construction methods and one I tried was the Nasty Toes Foam Wing. These wings are foam and come in four variations &#8211; the one I purchased was the Eppler 197. This wing has a surface area of 460 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An easy way to add a quality wing to your DIY project<br />
<br /><span id="more-96"></span>
<p align="left">
I&#39;m experimenting with different wing construction methods and one I tried was the <a href="http://nastytoesaviation.com/items/wings/no-taper-eppler-197-wing-set-nta-no-taper-eppler-197-wing-set-detail.htm" target="_new"><strong><u>Nasty Toes Foam Wing</u></strong></a>. These wings are foam and come in four variations &#8211; the one I purchased was the Eppler 197. This wing has a surface area of 460 in² / 3.2 ft², which is what I wanted for the model I&#39;m building (I&#39;m a park flyer and I don&#39;t want a missile); if needed, you can make it longer by adding other components to it.
</p>
<p align="left">
The wings come in a large box which, when opened, revealed two large foam blocks:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 450px; height: 224px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas2.jpg" border="0" alt="nas2.jpg" title="nas2.jpg" width="450" height="224" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Closer inspection showed that the wings are inside the foam blocks:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 500px; height: 286px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas3.jpg" border="0" alt="nas3.jpg" title="nas3.jpg" width="500" height="286" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Each wing slips easily out of the foam block, as shown below:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 600px; height: 384px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas11.jpg" border="0" alt="nas11.jpg" title="nas11.jpg" width="600" height="384" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Once out and lined up, looks like a nice wing:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 800px; height: 172px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas10.jpg" border="0" alt="nas10.jpg" title="nas10.jpg" width="800" height="172" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
These wings are each cut 23&quot; long with a 10&quot; cord, has &quot;three degrees of dihedral pre-cut into the root end of each wing half and each half has 3 degrees washout for a more stable flight&quot;. It&#39;s VERY nice to have all this pre-cut accurately.
</p>
<p align="left">
The foam used is Extruded Polystyrene foam (1 lb foam &#8211; EPS):
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 500px; height: 375px" src="articletoes/nas1.jpg" border="0" alt="Foam" width="500" height="375" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
There may be some small voids between cells. The surface should be lightly sanded before doing anything to it &#8211; I used 400 grit with a power sander (held lightly). Following directions that come with the wings, I cut out ailerons:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 600px; height: 229px" src="articletoes/nas5.jpg" border="0" alt="Ail Cut" width="600" height="229" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
I then lined up the two wing halves with short pins &#8211; I decided to join the wings using carbon tubes:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 600px; height: 378px" src="articletoes/nas9.jpg" border="0" alt="Pins" width="600" height="378" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
The foam is not all that tough to penetrate &#8211; I tried slowly drilling but quickly found that it was overkill, so I was able to line up the tubes and push them into place:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 600px; height: 505px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas6.jpg" border="0" alt="nas6.jpg" title="nas6.jpg" width="600" height="505" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Lined up and ready to go:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 816px; height: 636px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas8.jpg" border="0" alt="nas8.jpg" title="nas8.jpg" width="816" height="636" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
This shows how the two halves line up:
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 402px; height: 642px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas7.jpg" border="0" alt="nas7.jpg" title="nas7.jpg" width="402" height="642" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
After a trial fitting, I then epoxied the tubes in place, as well as epoxying the center joint. After five minutes, the epoxy kicked in and I had a nice tight fit with dihedral and washout built in.
</p>
<p align="left">
One thing I did notice with the foam used is that it is not all that robust &#8211; I would be very hesitant to fly with it &quot;as is&quot; without some strengthening. There are a host of techniques for this and, depending on what&#39;s used, will add some weight.
</p>
<p align="left">
As I wanted a strong wing that I could move between models, I erred on the strength side vs lightness. The wing weighed in at about 3¼ ounces and 4 ounces after joining.
</p>
<p align="left">
I decided to use SIG KOVERALL, a white, heat shrinkable, light weight (1¼ oz/yd) polyester fabric which can be doped, enameled or epoxied to attain impact strength &#8211; I used Minwax Polycrylic with excellent results &#8211; it&#39;s water based, dries quickly, cleans up with soap and water and is not too heavy &#8211; three coats seem to give very good results.
</p>
<p align="left">
This is what the wing looked like after covering (not trimmed yet):
</p>
<div align="left">
<div style="text-align: center">
<img style="width: 800px; height: 199px" src="/images/stories/articles/toes/nas4.jpg" border="0" alt="nas4.jpg" title="nas4.jpg" width="800" height="199" />
</div>
</div>
<p align="left">
Once covered, the wing&#39;s stiffness was markedly improved &#8211; no question that it is MUCH stronger than the bare foam wing. The fabric gives the wing incredibly improved stability in flexing and twisting motions; frankly, I don&#39;t know how you could NOT do something to strengthen it. After covering, the wing weighed in at 7.4 ounces; considering its large surface area, not too bad.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
The Nasty Toes Foam Wing (Eppler 192) is a very nice way to quickly add an accurately cut foam wing to your DIY project. At about $20 shipped, it&#39;s not unreasonable and saves a lot of building time, although I would be hesitant to use it without some form of strengthening.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong>NOTE: This is a new site and consider it a &quot;work in progress&quot;. I would greatly encourage readers to send in articles for posting on AmpAviators. In contrast to a forum, finding articles of interest will be TONS easier here.</strong> <!--</p>
<p><div align="center">
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		<title>Outrunner Motor Mount</title>
		<link>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/07/outrunner-motor-mount/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ampaviators.com/2007/02/07/outrunner-motor-mount/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov -0001 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false"></guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A handy way to retro-fit from brushed to brushless When retrofitting a brushless setup to an existing model, sometimes the shorter brushless motor will compromise the cowl length. There are stick mounts available, but frankly I think they lack strength. Rummaging through my local hobby store&#39;s surplus bin, I found this for $2: I measured [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A handy way to retro-fit from brushed to brushless<br />
<br /><span id="more-97"></span>
<p align="left">
When retrofitting a brushless setup to an existing model, sometimes the shorter brushless motor will compromise the cowl length. There are stick mounts available, but frankly I think they lack strength.
</p>
<p align="left">
Rummaging through my local hobby store&#39;s surplus bin, I found this for $2:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/outmount/mt3.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="500" height="508" />
</div>
<p align="left">
I measured the gap between the two arms and found that the corresponded nicely to the standard mounting plate for eFlite&#39;s Part 480. After some thought, I decided to sand down the ends (using a bench sander) so that they had enough down and right angle.
</p>
<p align="left">
I then tapped two threads to screw in the outrunner to the ends, and a third one to give more strength and adjustment for down angle:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/outmount/mt1.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="700" height="478" />
</div>
<p align="left">
The view from the bottom:
</p>
<div align="left">
<img src="/images/stories/articles/outmount/mt2.jpg" border="0" alt="Pic" width="600" height="474" />
</div>
<p align="left">
<strong></p>
<div align="left">
CONCLUSIONS
</div>
<p></strong>
</p>
<p align="left">
This mod is not too difficult and ensures that an outrunner retro-fit will conform to your model&#39;s profile.
</p>
<p align="left">
<strong>NOTE: This is a new site and consider it a &quot;work in progress&quot;. I would greatly encourage readers to send in articles for posting on AmpAviators. In contrast to a forum, finding articles of interest will be TONS easier here.</strong> <!--</p>
<p><div align="center">
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